Transom question

[Zack09]

The boat is a 16 fish n ski barge. Planning on doing my transom rebuild this weekend, and have a simple question, the original build has the transom core/ tabbing only coming down to the hull where the drain plug is the port and starboard sides are just glass. Do I copy original design or make a full piece to tab into the entire bottom of the hull? There are 5 stringers jointed to the transom partially.

 

[Zack09]

Here's a photo, will upload better ones tommorow

 

[ondarvr]

If it didn't fail in all these years then it was strong enough when built new. All you need to do is copy what was there to start with and it will last at least long as long as it did the first time. There is no problem in building it back stronger, but if it didn't fail.....

 

[fallguy]

Stringer looks poor as well.

Not fully sure what you mean by no tabbing or all glass. The sides of the hull are almost always tabbed to the transom. They aren’t just glued.

 

[Zack09]

Stringer looks poor as well.

Not fully sure what you mean by no tabbing or all glass. The sides of the hull are almost always tabbed to the transom. They aren’t just glued.

Yes I am redoing the stringers after the transom, then filling with foam to match original construction (unsure of that) I'll post some more pictures to show you what I mean.

 

[Zack09]

If it didn't fail in all these years then it was strong enough when built new. All you need to do is copy what was there to start with and it will last at least long as long as it did the first time. There is no problem in building it back stronger, but if it didn't fail.....

Okay. I am open to any recommendations. Ill try and get some pictures up of the complete hull as I have a few questions. I will be using vinylester for the whole rebuild.

 

[Zack09]

Here are some pics of the hull as it sits

 

[fallguy]

Throwing dollars away for dimes.

I recommend not spending a nickel on it, even more so with you asking.

Too many failures, too much rot.

Use the money toward a better boat..

 

[Zack09]

I am very well aware of how much this would cost and that it would exceed the value of the hull. I got it as a project expecting to have to spend money and time on it. I am asking for advice on rebuilding, not if it's worth it or not.

 

[fallguy]

Well, the first problem is the stringers cannot even be used as formers since they are discontinuous.

So, you have to decide whether to leave the old rotten ones or build all new.

If you leave the rotten ones; you have to make them continous and fair enough to glass over.

I would not want to start piecing in chunks of plywood and then fairing it enough to lay glass over it all.

Then you have to decide how much glass will replace the strength of the old ones.

From camera perspectives, I cannot tell really well what is going on with that transom. But I’m assuming the splashwell is still attached and that is under the tarp. Cut it away and post pics. All transom work should be from inside.

 

[fallguy]

Remove and replace one stringer at a time. After realizing the amount of work for one; perhaps you will change your mind.

Do you best to not cut through the hull. It will be tricky with such close stringers. But this is solid advice. Just cutting out one of them will teach you lots and help you determine a timeline. The new stringers are not supposed to touch the hull and get bonded into putty. Since the wood will get wet, the boat really needs to go indoors for this much work ahead.

 

[gonzo]

It is not so much work. Cut one side flush with the hull and leave half or so on the other side. Cut the stringers to match the previous ones. Grind the area, including the face of the stringer skin left. Set the plywood in mat soaked in resing. Hold the new stringers in place with screws to the section of old stringer skin. Laminate with mat and polyester resin and they will be as good or better than new. You can be done in a weekend.

 

[Zack09]

Working on supporting the hull today. Going to do transom first then start on port stringer then once thats done I'm going to do the opposite side and work my way in. I will be using vinylester and 1708. I plan on using divnycell for the deck.

 

[kapnD]

To quantify the OPs commitment to the project, Apparently there’s somewhat of a cult following for old 60s Fish n Ski Barges in Florida.
The hull is a somewhat flattened tri hull, very stable, and very shallow draft, moves easily with 40-90hp.
I’ve never seen such a robust stringer system in a small boat, but it must be really heavy.
I’m thinking that lowering half of the stringers would suffice and save a lot of weight, while still providing enough support for the decks.
From what I can see, the inside of the boat is all chopper gun layup, with predictable degradation, so its removal is totally justified, and can be replaced with weight loss and strength gains.
I see some 16 grit discs and a lot of dust in the future!

 

[Zack09]

Remove and replace one stringer at a time. After realizing the amount of work for one; perhaps you will change your mind.

Do you best to not cut through the hull. It will be tricky with such close stringers. But this is solid advice. Just cutting out one of them will teach you lots and help you determine a timeline. The new stringers are not supposed to touch the hull and get bonded into putty. Since the wood will get wet, the boat really needs to go indoors for this much work ahead.

Here are some photos of current progress, waited for some cooler weather before i finish the transom. I have two layers of 3/4 marine ply bonded with csm to the skin and I will be laminating it soon. I planned on using 1 layer csm first, 3-4 layers of 1708 tabbed out 8 inches on the sides and a few inches on bottom of hull with a layer of csm on top. If you have a better layup or method I'm all ears. I have 2 full rolls of 6in 1708 tape and 8 yards each of csm and 1708 at 50in wide.