SmokeyBear
Junior Member
- Joined
- May 6, 2020
- Messages
- 16
- Reaction score
- 1
- Location
- Georgia
Good morning all. I bought ANOTHER boat about a month ago and have been slowly fiddling with stuff as time allows. The boat in question is a 1980 Laguna Windrose 22, I bought her because she is a swing keel boat that will be much easier to launch at the lake and trailer than my Ranger 22.
The biggest problem I have been able to find so far is some damage to the hull deck joint on the port aft corner and the deck under a stanchion on the port side. The deck under the stanchion seems soft and is flexible but doesn't seem to be punctured. However, the rub rail is bent slightly on the aft corner and the deck has 3-4 inches on each side where it seems to have separated from the hull and can pull up slightly. I suspect that what happened was the spinn sheet was run through a fairlead attached to the stanchion and then to an improperly reinforced harken turning block. I am the third owner and the guy I bought it from said he got it when he was in New Mexico and the previous owner had raced it. I suspect he got caught in a gust or just raced it hard because the damage to the deck at the turning block seems very similar to the damage suffered by Parlay revival when the deck pulled up while flying the spinnaker. Other than that it seems like the biggest issues are the regular 50 year old boat problems of leaky chainplates and gel coat spider cracks etc. This is also my first boat with a hull liner, so there's a few things that I'm looking at potentially doing like cutting out some of the bottoms of the lockers and stuff to get better access to the bilge area.
My plan this winter is to fix the hull deck joint, clean the interior, re-bed and reinforce all the deck hardware, rebuild the Harken 150 cam cleats and the blocks and try to get started on the wiring.
Obviously the biggest repair and the primary issue is the hull deck joint and the rub rail needs to be re bedded anyway. Since it is a shoebox style joint, my plan is to remove the entire rub rail. Then use epoxy thickened with milled fibers to create a fillet where the hull liner sits (like drywall mud) and force it through the holes the rub rail bolts used. That will create a smooth transition from the hull liner to the underside of the deck, and then I can put a couple layers of glass on the inside and outside, essentially creating a structural joint that ties the hull together as a single chemically bonded piece.
If anyone has any experience with this type of repair or this boat I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts.
The biggest problem I have been able to find so far is some damage to the hull deck joint on the port aft corner and the deck under a stanchion on the port side. The deck under the stanchion seems soft and is flexible but doesn't seem to be punctured. However, the rub rail is bent slightly on the aft corner and the deck has 3-4 inches on each side where it seems to have separated from the hull and can pull up slightly. I suspect that what happened was the spinn sheet was run through a fairlead attached to the stanchion and then to an improperly reinforced harken turning block. I am the third owner and the guy I bought it from said he got it when he was in New Mexico and the previous owner had raced it. I suspect he got caught in a gust or just raced it hard because the damage to the deck at the turning block seems very similar to the damage suffered by Parlay revival when the deck pulled up while flying the spinnaker. Other than that it seems like the biggest issues are the regular 50 year old boat problems of leaky chainplates and gel coat spider cracks etc. This is also my first boat with a hull liner, so there's a few things that I'm looking at potentially doing like cutting out some of the bottoms of the lockers and stuff to get better access to the bilge area.
My plan this winter is to fix the hull deck joint, clean the interior, re-bed and reinforce all the deck hardware, rebuild the Harken 150 cam cleats and the blocks and try to get started on the wiring.
Obviously the biggest repair and the primary issue is the hull deck joint and the rub rail needs to be re bedded anyway. Since it is a shoebox style joint, my plan is to remove the entire rub rail. Then use epoxy thickened with milled fibers to create a fillet where the hull liner sits (like drywall mud) and force it through the holes the rub rail bolts used. That will create a smooth transition from the hull liner to the underside of the deck, and then I can put a couple layers of glass on the inside and outside, essentially creating a structural joint that ties the hull together as a single chemically bonded piece.
If anyone has any experience with this type of repair or this boat I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts.
