Infusing CarbonCore Plastic Honeycomb...

Ive got some raka resin with slow hardener that i could play 9 holes of golf between wet out and starting the vac.Keep your shop cool and you'll have all day.

If you want to infuse then try mold side only, gravity should keep the resin out of the cells.
I remember pouring water on the dry vail once and i don't seem to remember it soaking through
 
Ive got some raka resin with slow hardener that i could play 9 holes of golf between wet out and starting the vac.Keep your shop cool and you'll have all day.

If you want to infuse then try mold side only, gravity should keep the resin out of the cells.
I remember pouring water on the dry vail once and i don't seem to remember it soaking through

There are numerous different scrims available. Some are air tight, some resin tight, some neither. Only way to know is to bag a sample and see.

Gravity has no chance against a vacuum. Any holes with even small holes will fill with resin.
 
I am trying to figure out my infusion plan for 4' x 8' sandwich panels of CarbonCore polypropylene honeycomb.
Thanks,
Zac
Just ran across this subject thread and was a bit confused by this wording, CarbonCore....honycomb :confused:

Thought it might be some sort of new honeycomb based upon carbon fiber materials?

Seems to be a rebirth/rename of the older Nidacore product? I'll have to read the rest of the subject thread when I have a bit more time.
 
Just ran across this subject thread and was a bit confused by this wording, CarbonCore....honycomb :confused:

Thought it might be some sort of new honeycomb based upon carbon fiber materials?

Seems to be a rebirth/rename of the older Nidacore product? I'll have to read the rest of the subject thread when I have a bit more time.

You are correct. Nidacore was started by two guys I think, and the company was purchased by 3M. 3M only took one of the guys and killed the product line. The other guy started, or went to work for, CarbonCore and brought back the same product under a new name.
Everything above is just from things I have been told be sales reps, and may not be truthful.
 
Solitary Island catamaran, highlited features

Ran across an old email of mine I sent to a potential client outlining some features of polycore construction of a kit catamaran project....

I've highlighted the portions of this PDF in a separate doc attached to this email.
http://www.australiancompositepanels.com.au/Templates/study_plans.pdf

These are items that should be important to you both for yourself, and resale down the road. I feel very strongly that this is the BEST option for you. And it can easily be adapted for my rig.



Highlights of Solitary Island 12M Cat


1) Most kits available today are based on the 8 x 4 balsa sandwich panels joined along their long edge with a thin glass scarf join. The average 40’ kit will supply around 150 panels, which need to be aligned very straight and flat while being glued together. That is well over 100 glued joins before you can even start building. The Pacific 40 kit has its parts CNC routed from large Polycore panels. The panels are around 5.8m x 2.25m, the biggest panel you can fit into a 20 foot container. This significantly reduces the amount of pre gluing and the inevitable cumulative errors that can creep in when gluing many panels in a row. The longest panel in the kit, the topsides, has only one major joint.

2) High quality polypropylene cored product was chosen as we consider it to be far superior to balsa and foam. Polycore cannot rot. Polycore panels, using quality epoxy/glass are pre-glassed in the factory using vacuum presses producing a very good, consistent volume fraction resulting in the ultimate lightweight panel.

3) The Hull
...a) makes use of the wine glass shape hull. This allows us to achieve a good performance cruising waterline length/beam ratio of 1 in 12 while retaining a generous internal volume and good semi circular underwater profile with lower wetted surface area.

...b) This hull shape is difficult for the amateur to build so will be supplied as part of the kit, vacuum moulded under controlled conditions. This will increase your boats resale value as the buyer will feel assured that the part of the hull in the water has been built properly.

...c) From 400mm above the waterline up to the gunwales a single flat panel runs from stem to stern. On the inboard side a single chamfer panel also runs all the way from the stem to the stern. What could be easier?

4) The Deck
...a) decks are made into one large uninterrupted flat panel, including the catwalk, front beam, side decks and rear cabin tops.

5) You will also receive instructions on making composite chainplates, stanchion bases and other fittings so as few as possible stainless steel fixings

6) Solitary Island 12 has been designed with performance cruising in mind. An advantage of the kit built catamaran is that weight can be kept in check resulting in a very light boat giving sparkling performance and good weight carrying ability.

7) Ease of building has been a top priority throughout the design of the Solitary Island 12 kit. We are determined to make the job of building a boat as pleasant and rewarding as possible by making it quick and problem free. We have been involved in the development of catamaran kits for longer than most in this country and experience as multihull builders puts us in the unique position to know where time can be saved and processes made easier. A full set of pictorial instructional plans will be supplied explaining each process.

8) The main backbone of the kit are the two factory made hull ‘shoes’ on which the rest of the boat is built upon ‘the right way up’ (Remember all those nerve wracking photos of catamarans being suspended with two cranes while being turned over?). Not only is the most difficult part taken care of, but these hulls act like a strong back, another thing you don’t have to build. Just sit them in the supplied CNC cut MDF frames and start adding the bulkheads, bridgedeck etc.

9) Fitting out can be done before the decks are put in place, in fact most can be done before the topsides are added. This makes access easier and working more pleasant.

10) Note that there is a minimum of joining to do with all the nesting done on large 5800mm x 2240mm panels.
In fact there are no panel joins on any of the interior fit-out or cockpit kits and with only one or two joins on the larger parts such as the topsides and bulkheads. This could save you weeks of building time (not to mention fairing time) while the integrity of your boat is not compromised by hundreds of joins.
 

Attachments

I think I may be in trouble unless you guys can confirm otherwise...
Will the vapor barrier in CarbonCore honeycomb be strong enough to keep the resin out of the cells during infusion?
I have had a hard time reaching the manufacturer for a response.
I don't care if maybe 5% of the resin migrates but i can't just fill the cells up with resin and add all that weight and cost.

I have been in communication with Plascore and they have told me for sure that their standard PP honeycomb w/ vapor barrier and polyester veil will end up filling with resin. They said I needed to use their Infusion Grade material because that barrier film is strong enough to keep the resin out of the cells, except for the perforated ones. So you are thinking to yourselves...Just use the Plascore material and shut up. Well they have a minimum 4 week lead time and do not have any material in stock. I have a trade show in 6 weeks and I need to have a total of eight completed panels on display. That will take at least 8 days. I also need to build and test two panels at 1.5" and 2" thicknesses to determine the proper size core to achieve the deflection desired. I don't want to just guess on the thickness for the large order and after 4 weeks be wrong, and seriously up shits creek.

So does anyone have experience infusing this material that can set my mind at ease? I can get CarbonCore from FGCI.com by next Thursday but I don't want to waste my time if you guys can help ;)


I don't know why I didn't think of it earlier, I feel kind of dumb now, but I am going to try and forgo the flow media on both sides and perforate the honeycomb in a straight line right down the center of the panel. The line of perforations will be 8' long and spaced out every 2" OC. This way I can have my 8' long resin feed in the center, like Rob Denney recommended, and the resin will only have to travel 2' to the edge of the panel towards the vacuum lines.

Thanks,
VENTURE HULLS CANADA L.L.C.
As Far as I know , Even a Well Built Sandwich of Plastic Sheet / Core / Plastic Sheet , and then Vacuum Bagged , will , in the 15 Minutes or so it takes for the Resin to begin to Gel , only travel about 12 to 18 Inches along the Interior , until the Gelling Process Stops any more Resin Movement .
I've made 22 Foot Resin / Glass Vessels , and had to pour a full 5 Gallon Pail of Resin to achieve a wetted panel large enough to say , go from the Keel Line to the Sidewall .
We were ( 2 or 3 People ) all wearing respirators , and basically doing a Hand Layup ( Zodiac Hull ).
We had a Mold that we could Rotate , so that when we Poured , the Panel layed flat , and then all three of us would stand and roll the resin till it gelled.
Then after it hardened enough , we could rotate the Mold the other way , and then pour the adjacent ( flat ) panel , again , keel line to Sidewall.
We used West System Polyester Resin , and it Fast Hardened . 20 Minutes per Panel , it went pretty quickly , and then we let it Harden for 18 Hours .
In Essence , each 22 Foot Zodiac Hull took one day of pouring and Lay Up , then 18 Hours to Set .
 
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