45' solar catamaran

You may consider decoring the edges about 1/4” and filling with epoxy putty
You mean on the edge of the foam?
If yes, there is a 1/4 plywood stip all around the panels.
Those plywoods ensure stronger edge and will allow to put few screws to hold panels during assembly (just the time epoxy set).
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You mean on the edge of the foam?
If yes, there is a 1/4 plywood stip all around the panels.
Those plywoods ensure stronger edge and will allow to put few screws to hold panels during assembly (just the time epoxy set).
View attachment 208492

I mean for it to be inside the fiberglass; those edges will be the first to fail; decoring and filling them will create a shear web.

I also wonder how you intend to tab things; but with low shear values on the foam, decoring and filling the edges will reduce the chance for shear; especially if you have any areas of concern. My bridgedeck is a bit noisy underway because there is some motion/stress.
 
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After quite a bit of machining, I'm happy of the result of my little dual throttle.
There is two potentiometers hide inside who will give signals to the motor controllers.
One of the challenge was to find UV resistant plastic to build the main body. I found 3'' cast Nylon tube with UV rating.

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How will you get synchronization? The hum when engines are not is very annoying. I think the distance engines are apart makes it worse as the vibration distances are greater, but not an expert in harmonics..

It is not bad at cruise, but throttle changes where nicest.
 
How will you get synchronization?
I have no plan to synchronize.
Last throttle with dual 60hp diesel engine was not synchronized and I don't see the need for dual electric motor.
 
Looking good!

Nice choice on the carbon nylon.

On my first solar electric dual motor differential thrust steered Cat I built, I made a similar traditional dual levered throttle control.

Subsequently I ditched it for direct finger control of the potentiometers since steering using thrust requires delicate and precise throttle changes, and because I wanted the control to be wired so I could captain the boat from anywhere on “deck”.

At one point I considered using a pair of faders, but I’ve had enough challenges with the potentiometers with regard to protection from the environment and fear faders would be far more susceptible to damage from air/water.
 
I’ve had enough challenges with the potentiometers with regard to protection from the environment
The potentiometers I choose are rated IP65 and are quite protect inside the tube, so I should be good.
I have no plan to synchronize.
I forget to add that I will have the exact RPM of each motor on a screen in front of the throttle, so I will be able to manually synchronize the motors quite well if I want.
 
I could captain the boat from anywhere on “deck”.
I also think about that because VESC, the motor controller supplier, offer every electronic boards needed for building a remote control.
 
With the return of the warm weather, it's time to put the new cabin in place.
The original plan was to conserve sides of the last cabin, but they was partly damage by water, so I remove everything and will restart with a simple strait 60° wall.

Old walls was very heavy, but roof not so much. Anyway, for sure the new cabin will weight less than the old one and that will help with my challenge of low buoyancy.

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New side walls are now in place and glued.
We are really happy of the result and the inside space and arrangements.

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