gregjohnson1024
New Member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2026
- Messages
- 1
- Reaction score
- 0
- Location
- Ottawa, Canada
[first post ever]
I dismasted in the North Atlantic last year (long story) but 8 months later am about to start the replacement mast and boom project with a composites shop in Rhode Island. I would like to change from fixed to rotating rig, but I am interested in advice from people who have used rotating rigs on cats/tris in the 40-60' range on things to watch for.
1. Halyards. I'd like to move to constrictors as the loads on the Spinlock XXA and XXB are very high, and I find they are not very robust at this level. Replacement of the jaws alone is 600 $ and I see that the IMOCAs are almost 100% on the Coussin Trestec constrictors. It would also permit me to put the constrictor on the mast, with the remote in the cockpit. Thinking about placing them about 2m above the deck so we can jump them when not using the electric winches to hoist (particularly the main).
2. Halyard locks. I don't want one for the main (2:1) because they seem unreasonably expensive to add to the track. The jib can use the constrictor as well. But for the furling flying screacher/codes, I had a Karver external on the previous rig and although fiddly, it generally was a success. Stay with Karver or try something else? I'm also thinking of adding a removable inner forestay for a staysail, but don't know how this would be rigged.
3. Rotation arm. I have a self-tacking jib track just forward of the mast so the MOD70 forwards rotation spanner/arm/"artur" won't work. I've only used restraining control (single line sheeted to the centreline) on my other smaller boats, but I think positive control with two lines seems common at this scale - despite the danger of forgetting to centre the mast before tack/gybe. Have people run these control lines back to opposite helms, or both to one side or the other? My current thinking is that with a aft-facing spanner, I would run the starboard line to a turning block then a port clutch/winch, and the port line likewise to the starboard winch. Move the mast to centre before the manoeuvre, trim to new position after boom has crossed. One arm or two? Perhaps two arms at 45deg to the centreline?
4. Tangs for cap shrouds - I guess they should be in the middle of the chord of the section, so their movement due to rotation is as small as possible? Shroud tension on my smaller boats is much less (leeward shroud often visibly loose) but that doesn't feel like a good idea with a 20m stick - how should shroud tension be thought about at this scale and loads?
Any guidance, or referral to places I should go for guidance?
Cheers,
greg
I dismasted in the North Atlantic last year (long story) but 8 months later am about to start the replacement mast and boom project with a composites shop in Rhode Island. I would like to change from fixed to rotating rig, but I am interested in advice from people who have used rotating rigs on cats/tris in the 40-60' range on things to watch for.
1. Halyards. I'd like to move to constrictors as the loads on the Spinlock XXA and XXB are very high, and I find they are not very robust at this level. Replacement of the jaws alone is 600 $ and I see that the IMOCAs are almost 100% on the Coussin Trestec constrictors. It would also permit me to put the constrictor on the mast, with the remote in the cockpit. Thinking about placing them about 2m above the deck so we can jump them when not using the electric winches to hoist (particularly the main).
2. Halyard locks. I don't want one for the main (2:1) because they seem unreasonably expensive to add to the track. The jib can use the constrictor as well. But for the furling flying screacher/codes, I had a Karver external on the previous rig and although fiddly, it generally was a success. Stay with Karver or try something else? I'm also thinking of adding a removable inner forestay for a staysail, but don't know how this would be rigged.
3. Rotation arm. I have a self-tacking jib track just forward of the mast so the MOD70 forwards rotation spanner/arm/"artur" won't work. I've only used restraining control (single line sheeted to the centreline) on my other smaller boats, but I think positive control with two lines seems common at this scale - despite the danger of forgetting to centre the mast before tack/gybe. Have people run these control lines back to opposite helms, or both to one side or the other? My current thinking is that with a aft-facing spanner, I would run the starboard line to a turning block then a port clutch/winch, and the port line likewise to the starboard winch. Move the mast to centre before the manoeuvre, trim to new position after boom has crossed. One arm or two? Perhaps two arms at 45deg to the centreline?
4. Tangs for cap shrouds - I guess they should be in the middle of the chord of the section, so their movement due to rotation is as small as possible? Shroud tension on my smaller boats is much less (leeward shroud often visibly loose) but that doesn't feel like a good idea with a 20m stick - how should shroud tension be thought about at this scale and loads?
Any guidance, or referral to places I should go for guidance?
Cheers,
greg
