'96 Regal Rush XP-120hp Jet Power Loss

Had similar issue

I spent 1500 dollars at a jet boat specialist to have my wear ring and impeller replaced along with an new throttle cable. Problem is that samething was happening that happened to you wouldn't plain so I found that the ride plate was missing bolts as well actually had pull them through the aluminum plate. I purchased a new riding plate for the intake and problem was solved I could plain out fine but I did notice top speeds with two people max 35 mph engine is perfect runs without a hick up fuel and oil comsuption is fine I can go out and tube or casual cruise for a day no problem. My question is did you find anythign to help the performance as I am struggling iwth the same issue.

 

I've had my 96 Rush for about 5 years now. Over the years it has started to show these exact signs. I have already replaced the wear ring. Replaced the ride plate gasket. Still have the same problem. Engine seems to be running top notch. Shaft is tight and straight. The impeller looks ok but it has some very minor pitted places on the edge of the blades. Any more ideas since the last post?

Has ANYONE fixed this problem!? lol I see no reason it shouldn't run really well. It used to!

 

There is a (wax motor) auto enricher that adds extra oil and gas for the first minute or so. Make sure that is working. The multi carborator adjustment is critical but easy to do. (use the manual). Although the wear ring and impeller need to be about 10 thousands clearance, the most common problem is the ride plate adjustment. Especially the one peice type. Do the following.
Make sure all screws are in the ride plate. Make sure the gasket around the ride plate is good. The rear adjustment screws should be down about 1/2 to 3/4 inch from the body for a Regal Rush. This can cause a gap between the the ride plate and the back of the grate that allows air in. To solve this, support the ride plate with a jack just in front of the rear corners of the inlet grate cutout. (remove the two rear adjusting screws so not to break them) Bend the ride plate down to create about 3/4 inch clearance between the ride plate and the adjusting screw mount on the stator. Do this for both sides. Replace the Adjusting screws and be sure to have adjusting stop nuts on the top side of the ride plate. This will make your Rush jump right up on plane. Also a note: the curved area between the two adjusting screws at the rear of the ride plate often gets pushed back upwards by bumping on rocks. You may want to add a hard rubber bushing between the center of the ride plate and the stator. (don't use a steel spacer).

 

Any update with this fellas?

 

When owning a jet boat, be very careful moving out of shallow water. If you give it gas, you suck sand, gravel and rocks through the pump and just 1 episode can cause a lot of damage.

 

I just got this boat and trying to diagnose some things, I notice when it throttle forward and back, on land, the deflector shield is not moving up and down?? This should correct, could this be the lack of power the seller told me of??

 

I need lots of help please as I am new to this, I understand outboard but this is all new to me. I looked at the out from the intake and the prop and ring looks great, the intake does have one of the grates broken off though, I started it quickly for about 10 second. And noticed some oil dripped from the bottom of the pump

 

You have to dissassemble and measure the parts. Your eyeballs arent calibrated to thousandths of an inch..... Sand ingestion can quickly lead to 30-50 thou of clearance and that has a huge impact. If rocks hit the inlet side of the impeller they can damage the leading edge of the blade. A small amount of damage can be dressed out but more than that and you may need a new impeller.

I had a jet boat with a 90hp force powerhead and mercury jet pump and those jet pump parts were outrageously priced compared to inline jetski pumps for similar HP.