Recent content by TeddyDiver

A cassette rudder has the "pivot" point in the middle of the cassette so.. if the rudder is straight it's overbalanced by design. Another factor might contribute with high aspect rudder is if it's not stiff enough and enables twist thus making it behave like you described.

Besides catching lines I suspect that as in Thailand around tourist resorts they have a lot of traffic which often, due their habit to cut in front other boat bows to get rid of "bad spirits", makes steep waves and wakes hit the bow and cause a lot of spray on passengers..

And few pages more recent conversation after that so do not worry about the date of the OP..

I use Scott Proflow thou any such forced air respirator works with eye glasses I reckon. Replacable filters for any use you need..

Or you can just laminate over the excisting ones if they are else ok. The core in stringers is just to make the form for them..

^ what Tops and seasquirt said + you can always shave a bit of if the mast fitting is too tight..

You are in Sweden, plenty of spruce and aspen growing in the forests. Ask some landowner to buy one.. or two. Spruce for mast and aspen for spars..

If I remember right FreeShip had valuations for tortured ply on hull designs. Long time when I used it so can't recal precisely how it worked.

Second Aspen which should be easily available in Baltic (at least Baltic aspen is sold to Finland). Easy to find relatively knot free and it's light, close to 420kg m^3 half of the weight of birch ply. Besides you can mix wood and foam strips, I've done so on the decks, bulkheads & dinghy etc..

Laborious? Not, I made my 35' strip planking hull in 200h and it include sawing the strips from 36x120mm planks. Needs a good amount of clamps thou. The amount of GF on size of your design, for structural loads even 200 gsm would be plenty but not for point loads and for wear and tear and that's...

For strip planking you don't need 1st class wood as you can always cut of knots too big and go on. Besides spruce and asp (both good for strip planking) are much lighter than birch ply so you can do 6mm strips instead of 4mm ply (cut first to 7-8mm and sand down thus not needing 100% alignment...

IMHO you'd be better, easier and faster doing strip planked hull.

300gsm Biax goes well around R5mm rounded corners, even tighter. Just use a bit thickened epoxy beneath..

The amount layers doesn't improve the water tightness but the quality of layup and finish. Most likely the old top leaked thorough the holes for fasteners and the ply wasn't marine quality. Your top is quite large so a bit thicker core would be better, or now you've half way done some additional...

Strength reasons aside there's no other reason what-so-ever to use CSM. WR or Biax are easy to make watertight with thickened (w/ silica) resin.